Craftsy- The Couture Dress

Have you been to Craftsy.com?

I have signed up for two classes and am currently working on The Couture Dress with Susan Khalje.  This class is excellent!  I love taking sewing classes, but somehow I find that I don't get all the personal attention that I would like.  Here's a class that truly provides step by step, complete instruction with video, handouts and feedback.  You can email Ms. Khalje and she really answers you personally!  I am delighted with the thorough presentation of all facets of couture dress construction.  I'm currently working on the muslin and Susan has made the process so clear that I'm loving the extra step- I usually do most of my fitting with the paper pattern- this is so much more fun.  

Vogue 1284 Finis!

You didn't think I forgot about you, did you?  I've taken a break from blog-land to pursue other interests.  tee-hee.

 Vogue 1284 is finished and I've had a chance to wear it.  I love it!  I love the easy style and comfortable fit, yet the skirt length and slit give a feminine charm- this is no caftan.  I did make several adjustments to the pattern, I made no bust adjustments, merely lengthened the darts up to the bust circle.

The opening looks better in front on me, but not on the form

Welt pocket

oops, I should've pulled the skirt down in back

 I wore it with the opening in front and a cami underneath, both the skirt and top slit give this a more fashion forward look, in my opinion.  Like all the clothes we make for ourselves, fabric choice is most important; I chose a very fluid double knit, this pattern requires something that will fall slightly close to the body in order to give the top movement.  This outfit reminds me of something that was worn by Bud's naughty sister in 'Splendor in the Grass,'  do you remember that one?  I always thought I'd like a dress like that- now I have it.

I'd like to thank you all for coming over to see my clothes and I hope that you are all enjoying your sewing projects.  I'm trying to figure out what to make next...

Little 'Ol Me, An Award Winner?

I was nominated for the prestigious Versatile Blogger award by the lovely and talented SewRuth.  Thanks Ruth.  After reviewing the rules, I realize that I have to get to work, so here goes:


Rule 1 - Add the award badge to the winning blog page - check!

Rule 2 - Thank the blogger who gave it - check!

Rule 3 - List the rules - check!

Rule 4 - List 7 random things about the me:

1. I have a poodle, of course, I'm SewBarbie!
2. I have a passion for old sewing machines, had too many and sold a few.
3. Collect all kinds of kitchen tools and utensils including a 1950's popcorn popper.
4. I wear mascara every day.
5. I believe that beautiful shoes usually hurt my tootsies, but who cares.
6. I have more patterns than I'll ever be able to finish, but I love looking at them.
7. I love the classic and beautiful fashion models like Veruschka, Samantha Jones, Dorothy McGowan, Lauren Hutton , and Jeanette Christensen.

Rule 5 - The ritualistic passing on of the award to 15 deserving and conscientious bloggers who in the opinion of the chairperson are entitled to be nominated for their diligence, demonstrated skill and achievements in the world of blogging and specifically in the sewing related category.


I nominate:
Sherry of Pattern Scissors Cloth
Allison of allisoncsewinggallery
Sewforward of sewforward
Brian of briansews


I think everyone else who I read has received this award.

The Best Laid Plans...

Last weekend was to be my sewing marathon weekend, oh the plans I had.  I was to finish the top and skirt I'm working on then start another project; then I sneezed, sniffled and coughed.  I, who never get really sick was in bed the entire weekend....

Well, let's hope next weekend will bring better luck, the good news is that I lost three pounds.

Vogue 1284 Sleeves Attached

Here's the pattern photo, as I wrote before, I think it's too big for the the model.  I wanted it to look more like it does on the runway so I made a few changes to pattern.

First, I lengthened the darts, front and back.  The originals are about 1.5 inches long- the longer darts give a neater look to the blouson shape.  I also reversed the closure so I could wear the opening at the front.  I also adjusted the shape of the skirt which I'll show later.

I can wear it either way.

The sleeves (pinned on)  are very full and will have a cuff that keeps them puffed, the leaner shape of the blouse is better for me with those full sleeves.

Here's a side view.  I found this wonderful Italian double knit at the fabric district in Los Angeles, it's perfect except that it shines at the mere sight of the iron- I'm having to press very carefully.  

Sleeves attached, first real try-on- the fabric is perfect and moves like it does on the runway.  I love this design on the body, it has a very fresh look about it.

The sleeves are fantastic, they hang like couture should and create a beautiful shape.  So far, I'm loving this more than I thought I would.

Jeans Please- McCall's 5894

Who needs to make their own jeans?  I don't.  There are plenty of ready to wear jeans that I can squeeze myself into out there, not to mention how they inspire diet and exercise after I've seen myself in the dressing room mirror.  So why make my own?  Maybe it's the challenge, or just to do something a bit different, you see, I don't machine embroider- I topstitch!  Palmer/Pletsch designed these classic fit jeans and wrote some very detailed instructions for fitting them to your desired shape.    There are quite a few good jeans patterns to be had, I bought these because I have a fitting video by P/P that is thorough and inspiring.  The pattern does not disappoint, fitting tips are clear and do help to smooth those wrinkles.

This is an example of one the pages of fitting instructions, you can see that it starts with the pattern tissue then continues onto the fabric itself.  You won't have any surprises if you follow the simple steps.

Here's the front of the pants.  I used topstitching threads around pockets and regular thread everywhere else.  When you do it yourself, you do it "your" way.

Ahh, the back.  I sort of wish I had put the pockets a little further apart, but the side seams don't get sewn up until the end, and I always think I'm smaller than I really am ;-0. 

Here's another reason to make your own, I saw jeans in this fabric at Nordstrom and they were over $200- these will cost me $30.00, I get the fun of making then and save the $170.00!

If you enjoy playing around with your sewing machine, and you want a fun project, give making your "custom" jeans a try.

So why aren't they finished?  Five more pounds, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Vogue Patterns Photography Could be Better

Did you see the new Vogue Patterns?  There are quite a few that are worth getting excited about, don't you think?  But...I see some photographs don't flatter the designs at all.  Take Vogue 1284, and no, I don't have any affiliation with the Guy Laroche house.

Dumpy, isn't it?  Looks like the outfit is wearing the model.  Since Guy Laroche patterns always fit with minimum alterations, I always give them a closer look.  After searching through Style.com videos; I found the show, and LOVE the design.  You can watch it here at 2:48, this ensemble is in two versions with the top reversed.

I love it, don't you?  It's taking a top position in my sewing queue.  I really like the reversible top, Vogue doesn't explain that feature.  Speaking of Vogue, I've been thinking of letting go of my subscription, I've always looked to them for fashion inspiration and they're moving toward a weak imitation of Threads while downplaying high fashion.

Now I'm working on jeans and altering a pattern for a Chanel jacket.  I'll write about the Claire Shaeffer class there.  I loved it!!!!!!

Vogue 2950 Oscar de la Renta

Here is Oscar de la Renta's lovely jacket, skirt and belt.  The jacket is unlined with covered shoulder pads, front-fly button closure and two-piece lined sleeves.  Belt with self bow and mid-knee, raised waistline vented skirt.  I used a lightweight silk\linen tweed in a soft plaid because it works for both winter and summer here in Southern California.  This pattern was a joy to work with, the pieces went together easily and the directions were well written with enough couture touches to create a beautiful suit that doesn't take too much time to complete.  I love the cut of the jacket, it has just enough shape to flatter while keeping a "Chanel-like" look when not belted.  I think this suit has a nice, elegant and sophisticated look.

A statement without accessories

You can't see the vent at the back of the skirt, but it lays nicely.

fly front.

Going to a Claire Shaeffer Class!

If you haven't heard of Claire Shaeffer, you probably aren't making clothes.  She designs couture patterns for Vogue Pattern, writes for Threads and Vogue Patterns Magazine and she gives 5 day couture sewing classes in Palm Springs.  I'm taking the Chanel jacket class and will learn many techniques that I hope will take my skills to another level.  I sometimes get a little frustrated with collars, sleeves and some of the details that take a garment from good to great.  Hence, the CS class.  I'll review the class and post photos of the 1/2 Chanel jacket that we will be working on.   I hope I do a good job, wish me luck!

Vogue 1268 Finis!

The pattern describes it as "a very loose fitting, lined, wrap dress with a pleated blouson bodice, shaped front hemline and fold-back cuffs."

My description: "Ultrasuede blouson wrap coatdress."  If it were made of a light suede or chamois, I could wear this as a dress, but the Ultrasuede is a medium weight and not supple enough for the movement a "dress" requires.  Claire Schaffer says to wash the ultrasuede first, but it was expensive and I was afraid to try since the fabric clearly stated to dry clean only.

Instructions:  This is the first time I had a problem with a Guy Laroche pattern.  First, I did not interface the right front of the garment.  After many tests, I found it made the front too stiff for the soft fall that the blouson needs.  Don't interface the bodice right front unless you like it to stand away from your body!  There were a couple of places where the instructions could have been more explicit.  I had to tack the lining in by hand, their directions would have pulled the bodice seam allowance forward, I didn't want that.  Also, it's very difficult to get a hand needle through two layers of this material...ouch!  I machine top-stitched the cuffs.  You can forget about marking the snaps, I had to move the dress around a bit before I found that sweet spot that gives the most flattering shape, I imagine it will be a little different on everyone.  I cut the hem carefully as I noticed that the skirt is not hemmed, I like that.

I had my doubts about this as I constructed and fitted, it seemed to be unflattering until the very end, then, wow!  It turns out to be a very fresh, cute, kind of sexy, and very stylish little coatdress.

I'm taking a business trip to San Francisco and will wear it with a black turtleneck shell, black tights and black boots.  I guess I'll be taking those off for TSA :(.

I love the pattern, but won't make it again, it's a strong statement and one is enough.  I can see this style in a lightweight double knit, either in black, or a vibrant blue.  My advice is to use the pattern as a guide,  your hands and intuition will smooth all the pieces to fit your body just right.