Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Hemming Knits with a Double Needle on your Sewing Machine

I'd like to share a tip with you.  I have a coverhem/serger machine, but I don't use it as often as I should.  I really haven't made many knit type garments that require a coverhem, so knits have a learning curve for me.  I blogged a Donna Karen knit dress, and if you read it, you know that I wasn't overjoyed with the coverhem.  It was a bit wavy for my taste; I like hems that look smooth and light (not much thread in there).  Since I'm very comfortable using my sewing machine, I thought I'd try a twin needle for a "coverhem" type hem.  I did a few tests and quickly produced a hem that I LOVE!  I want to share it with you since many of us are sewing up our knits for the warmer months.

Here's what I did:
First, I pressed up the hem the desired measurement making certain it was even all the way around.

Then I put it under the needle to see exactly where the left needle would enter the hem.

Using the throatplate as I guide, I marked/eyeballed the bottom of the hem.  You'll notice that I used the walking foot- more about that later.

You can see exactly where the bottom of that hem needs to be.

Now, turn the skirt over and line the folded hem up to your marked area.  I'm showing the completed garment here, but this is how it was done before the hem went in.

I sewed completely around, starting and stopping at exactly the same place.    
To produce the smoothest hem, I used my walking foot and only guided the fabric lightly, in other words- I let the machine take the fabric through without pushing or pulling- I also stopped to smooth the layers when necessary.  I used a 2.5 needle, my tensions were normal, as as you can see from both sides; I was able to get a smooth, light and exact hem that I'm happy to show and wear.   Click on the pics for a good close-up view and see how nicely a regular machine can hem knits.

I love to hear from you and if you find this helpful, please let me know.

1 comment:

  1. This is great information. I would never have thought of these steps. Next time I make a double needle hem, I'll be sure to follow these steps.
    Thank you for this!!!